Autochthonous vine varieties, a heritage to save

The main objective of Feudi di San Marzano is to preserve and exploit the wonderful Apulian grapes. You only have to consider our range of wines in order to realize that this objective has been translated into a real project.

A brilliant example of this dedication is the project named “Sessantanni” whose purpose is to preserve and increase the value of the very old vineyards of Primitivo . After many years of agronomic research we realized that the best way to bring prestige to this noble variety of grapes, Primitivo, was that of producing a kind of wine called “Sessantanni ”, obtained from very old vineyards, aged sixty years and more, having the shape of little trees. Come and see us and we will be proud of showing you the “ Sessantanni Valley ”, an expanse of more than 10 hectares of vineyards having the shape of little trees that we have patiently cured and reactivated.

Another noticeable example of our commitment is the so called “ Verdeca SUD” a product we really wanted in order to contradict those who believed that the Verdeca couldn't give fragrant wines and to show that the region of Apulia , and of Salento in particular, can produce first-rate white wines. Our latest project is called “Liatico” and follows the old Apulian tradition of sweet red wines obtained from the Aleatico , a fragrant but almost abandoned variety of grapes. In line with our strong commitment that is oriented towards the renovation of the huge historical heritage of the local art of wine-growing, here is some basic information concerning our varieties of grapes The majority of these pieces of information are taken from Professor Calò's, Professor Costacurta's and Professor Scienza's studies on the matter.

Aglianico

It is a black grape, particularly spread in Basilicata and, in smaller quantity, also in Campania , in the province of Avellino . Many experts assert that Aglianico is among the grape varieties of old cultivation in the Apulian territory

It is of very ancient origins and was grown at the dawn of the Roman civilization when it constituted the main ingredient in the production of the Falernian wine, largely celebrated by the classical poets.

This vine variety was believed to have been brought into Italy by the ancient Greeks, during the period of the foundation of Cuma, or slightly later; on the other hand the transformation of the name “ Hellenica ” into “ Hellanica ” and so into “ Aglianico ” dates back to the end of the 15th century, the period in which the Reign of Naples was under the Aragonese rule.

Aleatico

This vine-variety was probably brought into Italy in ancient times by the Greeks, and subsequently spread in the whole territory of Italy , especially in Latium and Apulia . In some areas of Tuscany , where there is also a kind of black Aleatico , it goes by the name of Liatico or Liatica . Some authoritative experts say that it is a mutation of the Muscat variety. The corresponding Greek grape, grown in Crete , has by contrast a neutral taste

The name probably derives from “July” ( iouliatico in Greek), the month in which ripening occurs.

Black Malvasia of Salento

This name covers a large range of varieties.

It is probably of very ancient origins, native to Greece and Aegean islands, now spread in the majority of the Mediterranean countries, in Madeira , in South-Africa and in California , especially in its white variety.

In the last few years the scholars of the Experimental Institute for Viticulture of Turi have noticed that the two kinds of black Malvasia known in Salento, the one grown in Lecce , the other in Brindisi , are actually the same.

The Black Malvasia of Brindisi probably doesn't belong to the varieties of oriental origin. It has a slightly aromatic taste, depending on the number of bunches per vine and on the grapes ripeness.

Negroamaro

It is one of the black vine varieties more grown in Italy . It is of uncertain origins: it was probably brought into the Ionian region by the Greeks.

The name derives from the dialect expression “niuru mauru” , referring to the typical black hue of the fruit and to the great concentration of tannins which give the wine a bitter taste; or maybe it derives from the expression “nero mavro” that stresses the black colour of the peel. Other names under which this grape is known are “ nicra amara”, “Abruzzian”,” uva cane” , “arbese”, “albese”, “nero leccese”, “Ionian”, “mangiaverde”.

It is particularly spread in the provinces of Lecce , Brindisi and Taranto where it is usually blended with Black Malvasia or with Montepulciano, in order to produce elegant red and rosé wine.

Here in San Marzano we prefer the early variety of this grape, whose ripening occurs about 20 days early. The early ripening consequently reduces the rot risk.

Primitivo

The word “Primitivo” derives from the Latin term “ Primativus ” and refers to the early ripening of this vine variety that occurs between the second half of August and the first days of September, two weeks earlier than other Apulian grapes

Still today we have some doubts about its origins. According to the first historically documented news, this grape was firstly cultivated on a large area of the Apulian territory ,and in particular in Gioia del Colle (about a hundred kilometres to the north of Manduria), in the 17 th century, by some Benedictine monks.

Towards the end of the 19 th century these noble grapes followed the destiny of a noblewoman from Altamura who, getting married to a nobleman from Salento ,brought him some rootstocks. In these new country , the present territory of d.o.c. “Primitivo di Manduria” , this grape found its ideal habitat. The first label dates back to 1891, and was made by Father Menotti Schiavoni who produced his wine on the dunes of Campomarino, in the Gulf of Taranto , a few kilometres from Manduria. That's the reason why this kind of Primitivo was named “ Campo Marino ”.

It is interesting to mention the affair Primitivo-Zinfandel . The similarity between these two vine varieties was discovered by chance in 1967, when a Californian professor visiting Apulia , while tasting some Primitivo , stated that it reminded him the Zifandel . Some ampelographic studies and more recently the analysis of DNA have confirmed the correspondence Zinfandel-Primitivo . Not knowing any other European regions where this grape was cultivated, they deduced that it had been brought into America directly from Apulia . By the way, some research conducted by a group of Croatian and Californian researchers confirmed that it was not the case.

In the eighties a certain similarity was noticed between Zinfandel-Primitivo and a grape variety of Croatian origins called “ Plavac mali ”, widely cultivated in the Balkan region. Later, some DNA analyses proved that Plavac mali is the result of a spontaneous hybridization between Zinfandel-Primitivo and “ Dobricic ”, a grape variety native of the Dalmatian coast, which is very rare today.

All of this would indicate the hypothesis of a Croatian origin of Zinfandel, hypothesis that is farther strengthened by the fact that this grape seems genetically similar to the old cultivar of Dalmatia . Two years ago, right in the group of these grape varieties, almost disappeared by now, a genetical synonym of Zinfandel-Primitivo was identified, which is locally named “Crljenak” and is rather sporadically present in the vineyards surrounding the city of Kastela, near Spalato. It is probably from here, through the Austro-Hungarian Emperor's botanic garden, that Zinfandel began its American experience.